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 Post subject: "Half" winterizing....
PostPosted: Mon Dec 02, 2013 2:29 pm 
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Team Axis

Joined: Fri May 31, 2013 12:22 am
Posts: 145
Hoping some folks can shed light on this....

I have been and plan on continuing to ride 5-6 days per month this winter, so I have a difficult thing to figure out. Some nights (I'm located in Fresno) the weather does drop below freezing. In fact this wed it's expected to be in the 20's.

What all needs to be done after each ride to ensure I will not be looking at a cracked block, but not take it so far that it will make riding a complete waste of time (if I have to end every session with 1-2 hours and start with the same then I'll just shut it down eventually.

What temps and for how long does it need to be below freezing for it to be an actual risk? Hoping to get a stronger understanding past the basic principles of don't leave water or you'll crack your block/oil change/fog oil, etc.

Thanks!!


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 Post subject: Re: "Half" winterizing....
PostPosted: Mon Dec 02, 2013 3:45 pm 
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Team Axis

Joined: Mon Oct 15, 2012 2:46 pm
Posts: 490
Location: NW Arkansas
What type of environment will it be in? Will it be stored indoors? I usually go by the 4x4 rule when in doubt, I picked it up off an old wakeworld thread. If it gets 4 degrees below freezing for 4 consecutive nights then it needs to be fully winterized. Also could use 3x3 rule to play it safer obviously.

At the very minimum most will tell you to at least drain the block when it's going to get below freezing.


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 Post subject: Re: "Half" winterizing....
PostPosted: Mon Dec 02, 2013 3:57 pm 
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Team Axis

Joined: Fri Aug 20, 2010 5:21 pm
Posts: 336
Location: Vancouver
If you have a heater that's more likely I would think to be damaged before the block. You could add quick drain plugs on the block and maybe a quick disconnect for the hose under the engine. Perhaps some Y valves in the right places with plugs would create an more easily drained system rather than pulling hoses.

You'd also have to figure out to do with water left in the ballast hoses.

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 Post subject: Re: "Half" winterizing....
PostPosted: Tue Dec 03, 2013 11:17 am 
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Team Axis
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Joined: Sun Jun 16, 2013 11:19 pm
Posts: 263
Pull knock sensors.
Undo manifold crossover hose.
Empty j hose on raw water pump.
Pull raw water intake hose from vdrive on the side leading to the tranny cooler and raw water pump.

That should take 15 minutes or less once you get good at it.


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 Post subject: Re: "Half" winterizing....
PostPosted: Wed Dec 04, 2013 9:29 am 
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Boater

Joined: Sun Sep 22, 2013 6:27 pm
Posts: 40
If you store in a garage, you can throw a space heater under the boat on the nights it freezes. I live in NE and there have been several years when I didnt get around to winterizing until Nov-Dec when we might have 5* nights. I simply heat the boat area of the garage and have never had a problem. You only need to keep the air 33*...


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 Post subject: Re: "Half" winterizing....
PostPosted: Wed Dec 04, 2013 2:45 pm 
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Team Axis
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Joined: Sun Mar 25, 2012 2:27 pm
Posts: 679
Location: pittsboro , nc
It really does depend on how its stored, I keep mine in a garage that's detached, not insulated. I bought a remote thermometer from Lowes and left it on the tray above the motor and it has never dropped below 40. I'm in N.C. in Raleigh/Durham/Chapel Hill area and I'm thinking of not winterizing. I have a small space heater and an electric blanket just in case it drops to close for comfort

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 Post subject: Re: "Half" winterizing....
PostPosted: Thu Dec 05, 2013 8:46 pm 
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Team Axis
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Joined: Fri May 18, 2012 7:05 pm
Posts: 358
In Alabama stored in enclosed storage unit with units on both sides. Have heard that it has to drop below freezing and stay below freezing for at least a day or more. We plan on riding all winter as well and I will not winterize or half-winterize unless it is going to drop below freezing for at least a day or two without getting back over 32. No power in my storage unit. If I do winterize then I will drain both sides of the block and the manifold.
(2 screws in the bottom of the block each side and then the hose under the back seat that has the screw on connection). I think that is right. Pardon my engine ignorance.

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